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Mont Blanc du Tacul (Corne du Diable) - 4000er - Die Viertausender der Alpen

Viertausender der Alpen

Die Viertausender der Alpen

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /www/htdocs/w00ace2e/vt/php-include/smarty/Smarty_Compiler.class.php on line 242
meine4000er Home Listen Gipfel Literatur Login


      <<    <        >    >>
  3 Beiträge Beitrag (bebildert) hinzufügen Einzelbild hinzufügen  
  Mont Blanc du Tacul (Corne du Diable) (4069 m)  
  Montblanc-Gruppe  
Photo © 4000er.de
Erstersteigung 4.8.1928  
GPS-Koordinate 6.89409° ö.L. /45.85236° n.B. (WGS84)  
Normalweg(e) Arête du Diable, Teufelsgrat (SO-Grat)  
Schwierigkeit S+, V
Ausgangspunkt
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Rifugio Torino (3371 m)
Talort Entrèves (1306 m)
Führer Mont-Blanc-Gruppe  
Hartmut Eberlein

Mont Blanc Massif (Vol.I)  
Lindsay Griffin
 
Karte(n) IGN 3630 OT
Chamonix
Institut Géographique National, 1:25000
Beiträge Aiguilles du Diable - Teufelsgrat (10.08.2008)
Besteigungsbericht
Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /www/htdocs/w00ace2e/vt/php-include/smarty/Smarty_Compiler.class.php on line 242


Erster Versuch der Überschreitung der "Aiguilles du Diable" im September 2006 musste wegen Schneefall nach der "Corne du Diable" abgebrochen werden.

Am 10. August 2008 ist uns die Besteigung des restlichen Grates bei bestem Wetter und guten Verhältnissen gelungen:
Pointe Chaubert - Pointe Médiane - Pointe Carmen - Isolée - Mont Blanc du Tacul.

Somit haben wir alle 82 der 4000er-Berge in den Alpen bestiegen! Es ist ein gewaltiges, wunderschönes Erlebnis.



Beitrag von:
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Margareth Voide-Bumann

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15.08.2008
Aiguilles du Diable (2008-07-20)
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corne du Diable
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Chaubert
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Mediane
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Mediane
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Mediane
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Mediane
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Pointe Mediane

Beitrag von:
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Strict Standards: Non-static method DB::isError() should not be called statically in /www/htdocs/w00ace2e/vt/php-include/classes/vtperson.class.php on line 454
Roberto Rovelli

Strict Standards: Non-static method Utils::sql2DateString() should not be called statically in /www/htdocs/w00ace2e/vt/php-include/tagdefinitions.inc.php on line 33

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23.07.2008
Teufelsgrat (19. Juli 2006)
Besteigungsbericht
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Durchsteigung des gesamten Teutelsgrates am 19. Juli 2006.
Hermann Reiser und Stephan Schölzel.


Einige Daten zu den Gehzeiten:
Abmarsch vom Rif. Torino 03:00 Uhr.
Einstieg Westflanke zum Col du Diable 04:30 Uhr.
Col du Diable 07:00 Uhr.
Breche Chaubert 07:13 Uhr.
Corne du Diable 07:22 Uhr.
Breche Chaubert 07:38 Uhr.
Pointe Chaubert 08:31 Uhr.
Breche Mediane 08:49 Uhr.
Pointe Mediane 10:43 Uhr.
Breche Carmen 11:00 Uhr.
Pointe Carmen 12:06 Uhr.
Breche Diable 12:51 Uhr.
Breche Isolee 13:00 Uhr.
Isolee 14:10 Uhr.
Breche Isolee 14:30 Uhr.
Mont Blanc du Tacul 15:45 Uhr.
Ref. Cosmics 18:00 Uhr.

In den Zeiten sind Pausen mit insgesamt 1 1/2 Std. enthalten.



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Den objektiv sichersten Aufsieg zum Col du Diable haben wir uns am Vortag ausgesucht, da wir am Anreisetag noch genügend Zeit hatten.
Die ersten 50 Hm nach dem Schneefeld sind jedoch sehr brüchig und steiler als man vom Schneefeld aus vermuten könnte. Der Fels wird dann immer fester und man kann gelassen bis zur Querung oben am Coloir steigen.
Hier an der Querung kann es bei Vereisung nochmals heikler werden.


Zustieg zum Col du Diable durch die Nordwestflanke.
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Vom Col du Diable bis zur Breche Chaubert ist es nur ein kurzes Stück welches in wenigen Minuten in leichter Kletterei bewältigt wird.


Die kurze Kletterstelle am Corne du Diable von oben aufgenommen.
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Corne du Diable von der Pointe Chaubert.
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Zurück in der Breche Chaubert liegt die Einstiegsplatte zur Pointe Chaubert 4 + diret vor uns.
Hier sollten entweder gleich die Kletterschuhe angezogen werden, oder den Rucksack abelgen um ihn später nachzuziehen.
Diese Einstiegsplatte sollte nicht unsterschätzt werden!!!


Einstiegsplatte an der Pointe Chaubert von der Breche aus gesehen.
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Pointe Chaubert vom Corne du Diable.
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Mit einem Doppelseil 50 m kann man von der Pointe Chaubert in einem Rutsch in die Breche Mediane abseilen.


Abseillänge von der Pointe Chaubert aus der Breche Mediane gesehen.
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Mehr Zeit benötigt man für die Besteigung der Pointe Mediane.
Die erste Querung zum eigentlichen Einstieg ist noch leicht. Dann geht es steil nach oben durch eine hohe Verschneidung und man kann wie im Führer beschrieben nach ungefähr 15 m nach recht queren. Die Stelle der Querung ist durch einen alten Haken in der Verschneidung gekennzeichnet. Also 4 m nach rechts, nicht ganz bis zur Kannte und dann durch einen Riss ( ein alter Friend steckt noch )gerade hinauf zu einer Plattform zu steigen. Ab der kleinen Plattform welche direkt in der Ostkannte liegt geht es 10 m auf einem breiten Band nach rechts um eine kleine Verschneidung herum in die Nordwand und in leichter Kletterei wieder hinauf zum Grat.
Hier befindet man sich direkt an der oberen Querung der grossen Verschneidung. An der Gratschuppe kurz absteigen und luftig queren auf die linke Seite oberhalb der grossen Verschneidung.
Ab hier leicht zu den zwei Gipfelfenstern. Man sieht sofort durch welches man sich mit dem Rucksack durchquälen muss.
Am andern Ende des linken Fensters befindet man sich auch gleichzeitig an der Abseilstelle. Ab hier noch zwei kurze Züge und man steht auf dem Gipfel der Pointe Mediane.


Pointe Mediane von der Pointe Chaubert.
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Pointe Mediane. Grosse Verschneidung von unten.
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Pointe Mediane. Rechter Riss neben Verschneidung.
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Pointe Mediane. Rechter Riss und grosse Verschneidung von oben.
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Pointe Mediane. Obere Querung.
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Pointe Mediane. Linkes Fenster.
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Pointe Mediane von der Pointe Carmen.
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Die Pointe Carmen ist wieder etwas leichter zu haben, das heist, bis auf die letzten paar Meter von der Abseilstelle zum Gipfel.
Eine ziehmlich scharfe Schneide bei welcher man einen 10er Klemmkeil gut gebrauchen kann.


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Gipfelschneide an der Pointe Carmen.
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Auch von der Pointe Carmen reicht das 50 m Doppelseil auf einmal zur Breche Diable.


Abseillänge von der Pointe Carmen.
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Die letzte Nadel ist die Isolee,
hier sollte man sich von der Beschreibung verschiedenster Führer nicht beirren lassen.
Von der Breche Diable führt eine Rinne ( kein Grat ) zur Breche Isolee. Auf halbem Weg dorthin befindet sich der Einstieg zur Isolee ( man muss also nicht erst zur Breche Isolee aufsteigen um dann wieder irgendwo 15 Meter südöstlich abzusteigen ).
Ich glaube die Autoren der jeweiligen Führer waren noch nie vor Ort.


Unsere Aufstiegsroute über die Contamine-Führe. Auch die Rinne und der Einstieg sind gut zu sehen.
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Voller Respekt vor der schwersten Nadel hatten wir leider unsere Cameras an der Breche zurückgelassen ,,leider".
Der Aufstieg kam mir einiges leichter vor als zB. die Einstiegsplatte an der Chaubert oder die Gipfelschneide an der Carmen. Vielleicht liegt es aber auch daran, das ich meine Kletterschuhe erst für die Isolee angezogen habe.
Dennoch haben wir für die Isolee 1 1/2 Std. gebraucht.


Isolee. Einstieg von der Breche Isolee gesehen.
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Wenn man erst unter der Nase im Südost-Grat durch ist kann man bequem auf einem Band 15 m in die Südwand queren und von dort nicht allzu schwer ( IV )nach oben zum Gipfel.


Isolee. Contamine-Führe von der Pointe Carmen aus gesehen.
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Letztes abseilen an der Isolee.
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Der Weiterweg zum Tacul-Ostgipfel benötigt bei guten Verhältnissen nochmals ca. 1 1/2 std. in leichter Kletterei.



Beitrag von:
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Strict Standards: Non-static method DB::isManip() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /www/htdocs/w00ace2e/vt/php-include/pear/DB/mysql.php on line 201

Strict Standards: Resource ID#196 used as offset, casting to integer (196) in /www/htdocs/w00ace2e/vt/php-include/pear/DB/mysql.php on line 228

Strict Standards: Non-static method DB::isError() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in /www/htdocs/w00ace2e/vt/php-include/pear/DB/common.php on line 736

Strict Standards: Non-static method DB::isError() should not be called statically in /www/htdocs/w00ace2e/vt/php-include/classes/vtperson.class.php on line 454
Hermann Reiser

Strict Standards: Non-static method Utils::sql2DateString() should not be called statically in /www/htdocs/w00ace2e/vt/php-include/tagdefinitions.inc.php on line 33

Deprecated: Function split() is deprecated in /www/htdocs/w00ace2e/vt/php-include/classes/utils.class.php on line 148

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09.10.2006
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